Peru is the third largest country in the continent (after Brazil and Argentina). To give you an order of magnitude, it represents 2.5 times the size of France and Belgium 42 times.
After my train journey, I continued north, in Pucallpa. The trip lasts 18 hours. We cross plains, the beautiful terrain, very different (this time I depart for good in the Cordillera), and more and more vegetation. Around midnight, I open one eye and see we are going through the rainforest. Matt 2:30, the bus stops ... a bit too long, it's weird. We are still in the forest and within a second, I think the terrorist attacks, possible in this area. Earlier, a commando Special shotgun slung over his shoulder, went on the bus to tell us about their protective role ...
The bus was in darkness and only leave windows open to escape the sounds of the forest. Two passengers decided to leave and I followed suit, leaving the bus full of sleepers. Outside temperature is mild, the night sky is beautiful and the almost full moon we used natural lighting. We stopped behind a row of trucks. A little further up the road, I can see a group: what are the drivers who talk among them, and lower, I see flashlights on their way to me.
I question the "scouts" and they say that heavy rains yesterday caused a landslide on the road. This is not an era time I encounter the problem, and I just wonder why, with the number of people present, we do not turn ourselves these stones ...
I see down ... The landslide is indeed enormous: a mixture of mud, stones of all sizes and tree trunks! Another landslide, less important, is 20 m away, and a piece of road, cut like a piece of cake, went into the river ... Yeah, we'll wait for help!
5 am. He almost day, and many people travel along the road to see the damage. During the night, the vehicles have accumulated on both sides of the incident. Some Peruvians get help from the crowd to get their motorcycle over the pile of mud and dirty out well ...
Our bus still passes through the forest, passing briefly through a narrow gorge, rock walls made of black, rounded shape. Water runs everywhere and the vegetation green fluorescent table gives the air of a lost world.
And presto! another card: o)
arrived in Pucallpa (after 22 hours by bus!) I'm exhausted and I decided to accelerate my efforts to my next destination: Iquitos.
Iquitos is located further north, and has some special features: It an important city, but clueless in the heart of the selva (jungle). No roads lead there! Iquitos is accessible only by river or air. Unsurprisingly, I'll choose the boat: o)
Some views of Pucallpa:
No, this is not an abandoned restaurant!
A Pucallpa so I'm active! In hot, humid I walk from one port to another, looking for the right boat. In one of the smaller ports, makes wobbly shacks and dirty cum, I feel that I must not lag behind too much and I turn around. A young man who reeks of alcohol at 5 meters, I use the hand and an approximate Castilian, told me that guys want to beat me up. Ah ... it is annoying!
It shows me lifting the chin. I cast a quick eye in his direction and saw 3 young muscled sitting on the edge of the road ... My informant is indeed packed, but I'm not! and I saw the look guys ...
I welcomed kindly "Mr. halitosis", and I walked past the chicos malos. From the corner of my eye I saw that they got up and followed me. At that moment I was afraid, I know the guys in these neighborhoods are nerds!
I focused on my attitude, I'm closer to the passers-by and I crossed a crossroads, an avenue towards more "reassuring", and they dropped the fish ... End of story. It was short but warm.
the outskirts of the port infamous ...
I finally found the right port! few years ago, it was very easy to find a boat to go back to Iquitos. But several agencies have failed, even a boat sank with all cargo and passengers (no deaths), and since a big agency (" Henry ") is carving the lion's share.
The hold of the boat is immense, and I can almost see ants storing tons of goods as in a large DIY store. The "seller" tells me that the boat leaves tonight. I decline, I already paid my hotel night and since my crazy journey by bus, I am neither washed nor rested. The guy was like another boat leaving tomorrow morning at 10:30. I have my info! I can finally buy a few things for my trip (fruits, hammock, rope, knife, etc. ...) and sleeping in a real bed!
The next morning I arrived at the port and lo and behold! Henry 4 is still there! The famous ship was to sail yesterday, is in the same place where the holders s'acharnent still the stuff of funds. Fortunately I have not boarded last night ...
It rained all night, and the port is an unstable ground sticky mud. The "port" is actually a sloping bank, and knowing that it often rains ... I manage to board muddy like a pig! What you should know is that this kind of "cruise" (yes, yes, it is one!) everyone traveling in the same conditions, namely: with a hammock, all in the same room.
All 1 st level is filled with Peruvian hanging in their hammocks, with luggage everywhere! They are almost all arrived the day before, well installed (if you know what I mean ...), and a bit nervous especially as the captain gave each a different starting time ... It is 3 days before Christmas, and one day of delay is important for all these families!
I knew that board would be the jungle hammocks, so without embarrassment, I m'incruste in the song, and get to know neighbors (that is preferable, since we will spend 4 days and 4 nights to dab) .
There are smaller boats that Henry to go to Iquitos. I imagined it on a small rustic boat, sailing calmly along the rainforest. I was a little disappointed to see this big thing of Henry 4, loaded as the Exodus ...
few days later I saw on the river's famous small boats. Well finally, I was happy with my ship! Small vessels have only one or two toilets to scare flies, and "showers" are in the same place ... And what is space on board, you sneeze and you fall into the water ...
I have no other photos of the "rotten little boats," but I think my description is enough: o)
1 - it is not about to leave. And 2 - will have the "house" these birds!
Finally, we leave the muddy bank at 14 h30, and our journey can truly begin! We sail on the Ucayali River, which ends its very wide road in the Amazon River. 4 days, on both sides of the river, the forest will be out of sight! The Amazon region covers much of Peru. Its rain forest represents 60% of the country. For example, Manu National Park is the largest reserve of tropical world (1.8 million ha).
Except for me as a foreigner, he is a young Italian couple, which is low compared to the total number of passengers. After a day of sailing, I know a dozen people by their first names, and on-board rule super relaxed atmosphere, family. In talking with a Peruvian, I learn that he too was in a bus, blocked by the famous landslide towards Pucallpa. Fun to be on the same boat ...
The showers and toilets at the rear of the boat, washed several times a day ... with mosquitoes lurking ...
At mealtime, the cook gets on the iron bars with his ladle and everyone takes his bowl to the tail. I had learned about life on board, before boarding. So I had some fruit (to improve the force-fed meals of starchy foods), and like everyone else, my plastic bowl! The days are punctuated on 3 meals (included in ticket price) and stops in the villages, by far the most interesting!
At each stop, the same table: all people waiting on the shore! The ideal time to the census of the village. Our boat landed passengers, drinks, televisions, motorcycles, etc.. In return, we support fruit and fish. So goes life on the banks of the Ucayali! All this reminds me the banks of the Maroni, French Guiana. The only difference is that my friend Nick and myself, we were not on a freighter, but in a boat buffeted by the current! O)
Friends observers enjoy: 
This powerful motorboat (above), used to unload and pick up passengers who live in remote areas. The Cargo idle, thus making the maneuver. 4 days, we will make a huge number of calls and "drop" with the express boat! So that on December 24, there are many fewer people on board. But the atmosphere remains the same: There are always kids running around, hiding under the hammock, rear bags, poker players (who play with real money!) And sleepers professionals not down from the hammock in an emergency ... I "lost" a lot of knowledge during stopovers, but those who are with me from Pucallpa become good companions!
the evening of 24, the bartender puts music and fun for everyone. That evening, I remember a visit to a village: it was dark, and as usual, the entire population was on the riverbank, dangling arms and a smile from ear to ear ... in a tropical rain ! A great scene. The bank was high and slippery, and more than one slid into the river, in the general euphoria.
time on board, is as idle. I enjoy this time to read, scroll through the wild forest watch and chat with the passengers ... days of calm and relaxation. After a year passed between the desert and the mountain range, all this green I love it! The night is the best time: temperatures mild (25 ° type), and a starry sky with a beauty!
In this village, heavy rains and the current have been shrinking the bank, which becomes almost impassable for heavy "Henry" ... But everything is done in good humor.
We arrive safely in the night of 25 to 26. I found a cheap hotel (difficult because everything is a little more expensive here), I sleep a bit and at about 8 am, I'm going around town. I know we're on Dec. 26 but by dint of being on the go, I have a little trouble with the days of the week.
The streets are deserted ... I asked a cop what day it is, it takes me a freak and me out in consternation that we have December 26 ! thing I know, but what day? " (What ball). "Domingo", he finally let me go!
The rest soon! Programme:
How do lots of friends in 1 day!
Iquitos: a city surrounded by water.
And how I lived on December 31 ...
Meanwhile, some small footage:
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xgfc9s_la-nuit-de-l-eboulement_travelhttp://www.dailymotion.com/video/xgfcus_arrivee-a-pucallpa_travel
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xgfdfh_moto-taxi-dans-pucallpa_travel
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xgfe1d_sur-le-bateau_travel
http:// www.dailymotion.com / video / xgfetd_la-river-ucayali_travel
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