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Iquitos

When we see the geographical location of Iquitos, you wonder why humans have decided to build a city in the Amazon, with no road access! ! Clearly, how we went from this :

this:

the sixteenth century, the conquerors have passed through this area in search of El Dorado, (I guess the wild nature at this time!) But no cities of gold in this part of the rainforest. Mosquitoes, cats, snakes and alligators were the law (the famous "law of the jungle") and anyone supposed, would go again!

But there is a stronger motivation than gold Religion. "Let's evangelize those who hunt wild naked! "Lasts they declare (and live in harmony with nature without bothering anyone, could they add). Thus, for a century, the Jesuits and Franciscans spend combing the river banks, seeking to evangelize indigenous ... Frankly, what j'me mixes?!

Every church has something wrong:)

The nineteenth is crucial, since visiting boats Steam on the rivers and streams around , will develop further human expansion, and the best of everything: operations (large scale) of Evea to produce rubber. A bit of Slavery, 2 or 3 outbreaks, and 1910, more escape! completed. The parrots will perch on the churches ...

Will follow a beautiful operating precious woods, resins, oil, gold (ah finally!) And more recently, oil (yeah !). The monkeys clapping in their cages, and parrots in front of so many remain silent human science.

So thanks to the Jesuits and Franciscans (thank you to God, then!) that allow me today, in 2011, to walk in a concrete city, and loud .. . OK, cynicism aside, Iquitos has side very pleasant.

Since its inception, the migrants came from everywhere, bringing a mix of cultures and human (mainly Brazilian, Chinese, Portuguese, English and Italian). So no more big cholitas à chapeau et tablier de la sierra ! Ici, les silhouettes sont plus minces, et chaleur tropicale oblige, les gens super relaxes.

On dit d’Iquitos, qu’elle est comme une île, mais il est est difficile de se l’imaginer, voire même, de la décrire. La ville est effectivement entourée de bras de rivières, and the vegetation becomes increasingly dense as one moves away. But Iquitos is also an urban center developed, and almost everywhere in the city, one does absolutely not consider the aspect island. There is even a 90 km road, which joined Nauta, south (photo below).

200 meters from the Plaza de Armas, the street ends and we see this:

The 1 st day, crossing the deserted Plaza de Armas, a seller craft comes to greet me. Ironically I asked if business is good, because the place is deserted. "You're French! "He let me go tit-to-tock! This means that, first, my focus is rotten, and secondly, that the French are speaking out beautifully all the same. I link my saying: "thou art Peruvian! "We laugh and we talk quietly in the shade of a palm tree.

His name is Roy (the Anglo-Saxon names abound tasks Latinos) and he is recanting a friend who's name is Jesus ... I noted that it is pretty cool to be accompanied by Jesus, and the joke goes smoothly. No sooner had I finished my joke, that a tropical storm descends on us (well, not only about us ...).

It takes refuge in a bar, and Roy wonder how many days I'm in Iquitos. I replied: "About 5 hours ... . Laughing ... are discussed in this relaxed tone for 1 hour! I met a few local drunks, and finally, Roy leaves me his number and invited me to party with them on December 31.

"La Casa de Fierro, designed by Eiffel, is the first prefabricated building in Peru!

Remember that the city is isolated in the Amazon, parts of the building were made by ship, like a giant mechanical in 1895.

I let my two companions on the Plaza de Armas, and file towards the district of Bethlehem, south of the city. Belen is a popular area known for its huge open-air market, as exists anywhere in South America. Unlike the downtown clean and quiet, the market is overcrowded and a bit dirty. I go snorkeling in front of displays of chickens, and walked to cons in an area below, houses made of wood.

I set foot in a poor neighborhood. The buildings are on piles of 4 or 5 feet high, and the ground is a muddy field (it rains a lot). Some homes are not lacking in charm, but the majority is rather wobbly, wood "tired" threadbare fabric hanging from windows without glass. Under each house, hammocks swaying, skeletal dogs and kids barefoot, shaggy-haired. I walk into a Venice of the Middle Ages! (Tropical version). Inwardly, I push the "nooo! incredible! " I do not feel in danger, but I know that the top of their house, people look at me ... I have nothing on me, no money, no camera, no bag. It does not make me invincible, but it helps me to feel comfortable wherever I go.

Suddenly I heard a cry! Dogs barking and people are pointing in the same direction. At this point, the "streets" are wider and houses perched higher. I'm heading towards a crowd in the shadow of two houses. I slipped into the crowd, taking care to my attitude (remember the body language ...) and I saw a teenager lying on a table.

A man holds a bowl of water, and irrigates the whole body. There are many people , I'm not sure, but I'm flying phrases and understand what happened: The boy fell from the balcony of his house. I guess they would have realized if a member was broken ... There remains the possibility of traumatic brain injury ... but I am not a doctor and the accident did not look too serious. I watched people around me, the street, the houses ... misery is really here ... I can not do anything for the young, I leave before they realize I have nothing to do there.

I went back near Belen and I have only these 2 files, where I did not risk anything.

Je remonte sur le marché. Vivre sous un climat tropical a ses avantages, comme par exemple la possibilité de boire des jus frais pas chers, dans les rues. De retour dans le centre, je croise Roy, qui passe ses journées autour de la place pour vendre son artisanat. Je lui raconte mon incursion dans Belen, et il me confirme que certaines coins y sont dangereux et que même lui n’y va pas...

La crêche de Noël version tropicale, avec des animaux de la selva :o) Elle vient juste d’être démontée.


Some streets are really nice, there it exudes an atmosphere of tranquility, and some buildings remind me of Havana.








I along the Malecon, with this incredible and amazing view over the city which stops net, giving way to the river and forest. It was on this walk that I met Willy. This is also not very complicated, because it all passers hello! I asked a few questions, and launches into a monologue rather amusing. It has sixty, a widower, and has some properties in and around Iquitos. The money is not everything, since obviously he is alone and going in circles ...

are discussed for some time, and Willy too happy to have found "ear," invites me to dinner. It grabs a motorcycle taxi, and on file at the other end of town! The air is warm, the city teems with people, the sun goes down selva on the horizon, and continues to talk willy ... engine covers the sound of his voice and not even try to understand, because all of a sudden, doubt assails me!

And if it was a trap? It sounds stupid, but it all happened so fast! His life in fast motion, the invitation ... and then an "old" is not wary, you can follow ... and then I think we are far from the center, and this way he has to talk incessantly, as if to drown the fish ...

us off the bike in 2 steps of a bustling market, near the banks of the River. is a very popular place, or Peruvians are eating mainly fish, turtle eggs and fruit. Here, we eat outside, standing on a bench or stool. It's very lively, and the nearby port adds overactivity, the whole atmosphere! I have pictures of Corto Maltese that come to mind. Albums that take place in South America with little drawings of streets, but I have this feeling of deja vu ...







But back to my mysterious guest! Earlier, he told me he was suffering from cataract, and had to leave in a few days in Lima for surgery. Not seeing very well, I help a little to get a taxi or take the dirt road barriers of the market. Market, Willy wants to make me lunch, and arranged almost every time to pay.

I asked several fois où nous allons exactement, mais il ne répond pas et on avance vers les rives, là où encore, son installées quelques vieilles maisons en bois. Je suis calme, mais la situation est assez bizarre. il me propose de passer le 31 avec lui car il sera tout seul. Il a du mal à me croire quand je lui dit que j’ai déjà accepté une invitation. « Mais qui ? » ma lâche-t-il surpris, « tu es arrivé ce matin ! » (oui, décidement, il se passe beaucoup de choses ces dernières heures...)

J’essaie d’en savoir plus sur lui. He tells me he has a hospedaje (a hotel), a little away from downtown. Iquitos is very touristy, a little more expensive than the rest of Peru, and the cheap hotels are around 35 soles. He asks me where I am and how I pay. Pretty lucky to flush out the good cheap place, I told him that I am at 2 cuadras Plaza de Armas, for only 17 soles! Bathroom and separate WC (compartido "in English).

He told me that her soles are 10 rooms at night! is still cheaper than in the villages of the south is fishy ... In addition, each room has its own bathroom / wc (in places not expensive, it is rather rare). I said "come see, if you do not like it, no problem! "



It's dark but I have no idea what time it is not the most important. It drags a little market, and while he speaks, I'm lost in my thoughts ... I can not quite define it ... it's a character, it's clear! Taking a bus for the return. With wood interiors and no glass in the windows, resembles that old jalopy "trucks" of Tahiti. You go through another route, passing through different types of neighborhoods, and everywhere we see the families living at home, where one sometimes sees Latin music. Willy tells me about his wife (deceased), who was German and was 1.80m ...

Twenty minutes later we got off the bus, and walk in a quiet area towards the hospedaje. Once in the street, he shows me the building where he lives. Il est propriétaire et le seul à possèder 3 étages !

Il veut me montrer l’intérieur. « Nous y voilà ! » je pense intérieurement ! « Le piège doit être ici... ». Mais d’un autre côté, il n’y a que lui, et moi. Et je vois mal comment il aurait le dessus. Son appartement est donc sur 3 niveaux. Rien de luxueux, tout simple, mais pour un péruvien, posséder cet immeuble signifie beaucoup ! Le dernier étage est une grande terrasse, très aérée, qui offre une perspective sur toute l’avenue.


At bottom, left, the building of Willy.

And closer.

Right in front of his building is his hotel. A long corridor leads to an inner courtyard, but it stops at the entrance, where two guys just kind watch TV. Willy asks one of them, show me the rooms ... Everything is done quickly, with few words, and I'm on my guard. It engages in the long corridor, where saying nothing, the guy opens up a room. He invites me to enter, et une fraction de seconde je m’attends carrément à une attaque surprise !

J’entre de côté, pour pouvoir les voir du coin de l’oeil... Rien, ils ne bougent pas de l’entrée. La pièce ressemble à une chambre de couvent, la croix en moins. Ils m’invitent à les suivre le long du couloir, pour voir d’autres chambres. Dans l’autre chambre, la scène se répète : je regarde à peine l’endroit, concentré sur mes 2 gaillards. On arrive dans la cours, où est installée une cuisine, une chaise à bascule sous un arbre, et 3 matous tout plats. Je me dit que si piège il y avait, il aurait déjà eut lieu ! Intérieurement, je décompresse...

On passe dans une seconde cours, plus petite, où se trouve une seule chambre. Un détail me surprend, je n’ai vu aucun client ! A ce prix-là c’est bizarre, mais bon, je n’en suis plus à une bizarerie près, et j’accepte la dernière chambre. Le factotum de l’hôtel, s’appel Segundo (dans le série des prénoms qui font sourire, j’ai connu une femme de ménage au Chili qui s’appelait Maxima...).

Willy and me accompany Segundo outside the hotel, where fixed the time when I can come the next day with my luggage, so they have time to clean House (which organization !). Willy tells me how to regain the center: "It's very simple, it's all right, 7 cuadras and you get to the Plaza de Armas! "No recommendation regarding street attacks, as is always the case in large cities in Latin America, and finally no catch ...

On the way back, I think back to that day unusual: arriving by boat at night, the hotel search on a motorcycle taxi, Roy and Jesus, the shantytown of Belen and the strange Willy ... What may pass for the paranoid against thereof, is in fact to caution about an outsized character! His behavior was very strange, and I can not wait for tomorrow to find out more. The air is warm, the street is quiet, and some people installed in front of their house, watching me move mechanically.

A la question « pourquoi tu voyages autant ? » Cette journée apporte une bonne réponse : voilà, pourquoi !! Car même si tous les jours ne sont pas si chargés, en voyage, je rencontre toujours l’imprévu, des surprises ; Et dans ces moments-là, le cerveau est en pleine excitation, on se sent « vivant », en pleine interaction !






Le lendemain, je redécouvre le « décor » de la veille (photos ci-dessus) mais cette fois-ci, day! Calle Napo (the name of a river) is a long street lined with tropical plants, with houses of a single level, which gives a pleasing prospect. Arrived at the hotel, I found several people who are busy in the first course, one where the kitchen. There Segundo, custodian of the land (in terms of a young killer), the guy who watched TV with him the day before, is there too. I learn that he is the son of Willy ... ah! It is so speed that it becomes comical.

Famous Willy!

The 3 rd person now cook, is a tall skinny, shirtless , with very long dreadlocks and a small pointed beard . Very smiling, it looks like: "My name is Krishna (sometimes it's very hard not to laugh ...). My name is Eric only, sorry ... I'll put my things in my room and Krishna just invite me to lunch with him and his wife (a Hindu goddess?).

picture above : Au 1 ^er plan, « ma » cours », ensuite le patio où se trouve la cuisine et le couloir qui va vers la sortie.

Si Krichna est maigre, sa femme peut être définie comme squelettique ! Mais bon, ils sont très accueillants et sourient tout le temps. On prend place autour de la table, et je vois qu’ils ferment les yeux et joignent leurs mains ! Oh, oh ... Krisna fait une sorte de prière, et moi, les secondes me paraissent des heures...

Sa femme est italienne, et lui, me dit qu’il n’a pas de nationalité (je l’attendais celle-là !). Willy fait son entrée ! Je vais enfin pouvoir observer son comportement avec « les autres »... Dans le pur style « titounesque » (il se reconnaîtra), Willy, de sa voix grave, salue tout le monde, surveille tout, reprend sans arrêt Segundo : ceci se pose là, attention à ça, tu as nourri le perroquet ? etc... Krishna me dit que Willy est comme ça, il prend soin de tout le monde.


Ci-dessus, Segundo, et sur les 2 photos ci-dessous, le fils de Willy et Tania, sa femme.




Krishna's meal is more than frugal a big mango share rice and bread ... Willy warms his cooking, and offers me a plate. It is not hurt! Willy is a little hard of hearing, and did not realize that he speaks a bit much. Front of the gas, I slip "discreetly" he hates the hair of Krishna, it is dirty! Ambiance ...

I return at the table with a plate full to the brim with meat, cassava and bananas cooked. I'm a little embarrassed to face my 2 HYPP birds pecking their crumbs, and I wonder why Willy does their has not proposed ... Because dreadlocks?! I propose to share, but Krishna refuses because the vegetables are cooked with meat. Yeah, I'm stupid!

The Parrot Hotel
I knew that people who live near the jungle, have exotic animals at home (well , not exotic for them!) and I had prepared myself not to make disparaging thoughts. Sometimes it's hard, I saw a woman in the street with a young monkey who was wearing diapers. In the course of a hotel, a sloth crawled painfully on the concrete floor ...



Also at the table, Krishna tells me they live in a community in the Amazon rainforest. "Over there, energy is ery good! " me says it. Iquitos was known for his shamanism. A universe that combines traditional beliefs and practices indigenous Amazonian legends, meditation, herbal medicine, mana, and spirits of the forest ...

All it is culturally and spiritually interesting, and I ask questions to Krishna, who jumps at the chance to invite me into the community! They leave tomorrow: "We leave the city, you do not want to celebrate the 31, this is not a religious holiday! "


There are 2 different litters of kittens at the hotel ...

I learn that their community is in the jungle (thus in a malarious area!) and I notice their members, recouverts de piqûres de moustiques... Krishna est peut-être immunisé contre le palludisme :o)

La vie est basée sur le partage, donc il est préférable de venir avec quelques provisions pour la communauté. J’imagine qu’ils attendent avec un certains intérêt la venue de nouvelles recrues chargées de provisions pour améliorer leur alimentation un peu hasardeuse (il m’a dit un peu plus tôt, qu’ils avaient une diarrhée depuis plusieurs semaines !!).

Mouais, à méditer... Je suis ici depuis 24h, et vu tout ce qui vient de se passer (sans parler des 4 days in the hammock on the boat) I think more just ask me. Krishna writes direction on a piece of paper, just in case ...



must keep an eye on the patio! If the kittens play rather quietly with the chicks, hungry cats have different looks, and Segundo has avoided the worst more than once!


So you'll understand meeting with Willy is a good surprise, and the hotel, the best city map! The atmosphere is very family, Tania often invites me to share a meal with them and few customers are Peruvian passage.

The days that follow, I do other games! All interesting including that of a French settled here since 4 years. It encourages me to stay, telling me that I could find a job ... narrate my adventures is a bit long, and without the corresponding pictures, not the most exciting for you ... Here is still a small sum of 31 December:

I actually went to Roy, met on 1 st day. His house is located in a village, just outside of Iquitos, and crossing the city by motorcycle taxi just after midnight was memorable! Neighborhood life is very strong here, and partying with the neighbors is common. By tradition for "el nuevo año, burning a puppet (muñeca) padded with straw, which represents the year just-drained. Throughout the city, every street corner, burning of muñecas, joy, and music! Salsa, cumbia! dance is an integral part of culture Latin and the atmosphere in the streets is excellent!



Roy makes and sells crafts, activity highly developed in Peru. Many foreigners also come to sell their artwork, many Argentine and Brazilian and even Europe! I said all this in a very specific purpose ...



After crossing the town, we headed towards modest neighborhoods, completely filled with smoke! arrived at Participación, son village, j’ai halluciné ! Les rues ne sont que des chemins cabossés, et les maisons, entièrement en bois, sont recouvertes d’un simple toit de palmes. Roy m’avait dit que la fête chez lui accueillerait quelques amis, et des voisins. Sa femme nous accueille avec son bébé dans les bras, et à l’intérieur, des gens dansent. Je repère immédiatement un groupe de jeunes (blancs). Roy m’annonce tout fiers : « voilà des amis français !! » En fait, ces jeunes vendent leur artisanat en voyageant, ce qui est assez courant. Le couple que j’avais rencontré à Huancavélica (le voyage en train) faisait la même chose.

So, as "colleagues" the French have got to know Roy, where their presence here ... The house is of course wood and soil clay. There is one large room and a stage, where the chamber. I can count the furniture: one, on which stands music, table, chairs and a large bench with a folder. All handmade, wood joinery is no shortage in the region ...

4 or 5 neighbors are there so many friends, lots of kids et, avec moi, 8 français !!!! C’est complètement irréel d’être au Pérou, invité à fêter le 31 dans un village paumé d’une ville de l’Amazonie, et recontrer autant de français... Je parle peu avec eux, accaparé par les amis de Roy et les gosses, toujours aussi curieux !




Vers 2 heures du mat, presque tous les français partent. Reste un grand type, crâne rasé et plein de tatouages. Roy insiste pour faire accompagner le groupe de jeunes français, car la traversée du village est un peu « risquée » for them ... Yeah, I had noticed that we were not in Disneyland ... I go back to party with neighbors and friends packed, perfecting my dance steps, the rhythms of cumbia!





I spent a total of 2 weeks to Iquitos. Many things have happened, I could stay there much longer, but my goal is to travel to Ecuador. And where I am, the journey will be a bit long for me to go first to Yurimaguas ... (Map below)


The plane is too expensive for me and experience boat was excellent, I repeat una lancha! This time, we take the Marañon River.

Again, I leave behind my friends, great memories, but no regrets I go, because I know that the adventure continues and that we must move forward to discover!

I found the port and its magical activity, a new boat, new meetings, it's cool ...

continued:

three days of sailing and lots of meetings! And my sensitive approach to the Ecuadorian border ...